Terms to Know

Grading & Marking

Eddy Montoya grading a pattern.

What is Marking?

Marking is planning the optimal arrangement of pattern pieces to minimize material waste.

Markers have to consider more than just spacing. Marking involves careful attention to all aspects of the material too, like the shrinkage and width of the fabric. This ensures that when the pieces are cut and sewn everything fits together just right.

What is Grading?

Grading is the process of expanding a base pattern into smaller or larger sized garments.

Creating sizes is more nuanced than you might think. The pattern has to be adjusted to maintain proportionality as you increase or decrease in size. Grading creates sizes through proportional formulas, which ensures that the garment has the same shape and fit in all sizes.

what about pattern alterations?

Grading is different than altering a pattern. Altering a pattern is a similar process, but changes aspects of a pattern without numeric proportionality. This process does not create the same garment in a larger or smaller size, but creates a new pattern in a more customized size.

For example, you might expand the waist or bust measurement of a garment, but keep the sleeve length or shoulder width the same.

You can read about the History of Standardized Sizing on our Digital Zine: Extra Measures!

Who grades for Rule DD?

Meet Eddy mONTOYA AND HIS FAMILY.

We’ve hand-picked some of the most skilled and collaborative partners in the Los Angeles area to support our team. Working directly with our tight-knit network ensures that our contractors are properly respected, and maintains an inherent level of sustainability.

Meet more of Our Community!

Small-Batch Production

What is Small-Batch Production?

Small-batch production refers to any order of 500 units per style (UPS), or less.

Our production coordination services start with a minimum order quantity (MOQ) of 25 UPS. There are price breaks at 50, 100, 200, and 400 UPS. Restrictions for maximum number of sizes and colors vary across tiers.

Why produce in small-batches?

SMALL BATCHES ENSURE LESS WASTE AND ENABLE MORE CONSCIOUS DESIGN.

Rule DD is rooted in small-batch production and conscious choices. We proudly manufacture all of our garments in downtown Los Angeles, and source materials from local vendors whenever possible. We are committed to providing quality over quantity through intentional choices.

Larger brands work with order quantities in the thousands, often over producing and generating more waste. By working with small-batches and lower MOQs, we uplift boutique brands by only producing what they need.

Who produces our small-batches?

Meet edgar and francisco.

We’ve hand-picked some of the most skilled and collaborative partners in the Los Angeles area to support our team. Working directly with our tight-knit network ensures that our contractors are properly respected, and maintains an inherent level of sustainability.

Meet more of Our Community!

Boutique

What defines Boutique?

Boutique can refer to any establishment that is small, sophisticated, and specialized.

While you might be most familiar with boutique as a name for a small shop that sells fashionable accessories and clothes, boutique is a term for more than just retail stores. 

What makes Rule Design & Development a boutique apparel studio?

We define our community and services as boutique because we are an intimate & skilled team THAT IS committed to working with small business owners and their brands 

All of our work is curated with a careful eye and an acute attention to detail. We strive to provide a personalized experience for each of our clients and love the intimate minutiae of every design. From helping you pick which buttons, to stitching the fine print on your labels, we aim to deliver a sophisticated and seamless experience.

Rule DD is rooted in small-batch production and conscious choices. We proudly manufacture all of our garments in downtown Los Angeles, and source materials from local vendors whenever possible. We are committed to providing quality over quantity by knitting creativity with expertise, sharing informed resources, and engaging in community involvement.

Cutter

What is a Cutter?

a CUTTER SPECIALIZES IN spreading, resting, and cutting the fabric BEFORE sewing begin.

This work is done with a careful eye, a steady hand, and years of practice.

Who cuts for Rule DD?

mEET vICTOR.

We’ve hand-picked some of the most skilled and collaborative partners in the Los Angeles area to support our team. Working directly with our tight-knit network ensures that our contractors are properly respected, and maintains an inherent level of sustainability.

Meet more of Our Community!

Samples

What are Samples?

Samples are Garments produced to test a Design.

Once the pattern has been drafted, it’s time to test the design’s aesthetic, fit and function. This is done by sewing one garment, a Fit Sample, from the pattern with the intended fabric. During a fitting session, the designer will comment on any necessary alterations or changes to the aesthetic, fit, or function. These alterations are noted and reflected in the final pattern.

When the sample looks, fits, and functions per the designer’s intended vision, we consider this a Final Approved Sample (FAS).

Typically, the FAS is achieved after two sessions of revisions. During the process, we save each sample as an Archival Sample. By working with archival samples, we can cross check our work and confirm if the alterations to the garment have achived the desired outcome.

Who produces samples for Rule DD?

Meet Ramon and Martha.

We’ve hand-picked some of the most skilled and collaborative partners in the Los Angeles area to support our team. Working directly with our tight-knit network ensures that our contractors are properly respected, and maintains an inherent level of sustainability.

Meet more of Our Community!